Friday 25 September 2015

Wills you cill love me 2moro?

I'm trying to build this as closely as possible to design without repetition or deviation. The lintels are just about OK. The soldier rows however are not. For some reason  don't get the 'stick on top' game surely they should be flush. That would mean cutting in, or at the very least using a thinner material. Though the Will bits aren't really a lot thicker than the Slaters equivalent. Case for scribing the whole lot? The cills are quite puzzling too.

4 comments:

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  2. This is a problem I've always had with using the Wills stuff.......I have built half a Snailbeach-style stone bridge (to disguise a fiddle yard exit) in 009 using the coarse stone with brick arch from the pack of various windows etc.
    I test fitted the arch but couldn't live with it protruding from the stone by effectively half a brick's depth so it was out with the piercing saw and cut an aperture for the thing to sit in. Took ages to get right and I'm not sure I'd want to repeat the exercise to be honest, especially with lots of small window arches, lintels or whatever.
    The trouble is, I can't see an easy solution to the problem as of course every situation will be different......3D printed walls, anyone?
    Even using thinner materials such as South Eastern Finecast or Slaters embossed styrene it isn't easy to get this sort of thing right, and if you cock it you'll probably need to start again.
    I did wonder about using a small dental burr or similar to remove material and form a recess for the arch moulding to sit in but then the plastic tends to melt and clog up the cutting edges.
    Perhaps it would be simpler to just start with a blank sheet of styrene and scribe all the brickwork in!
    Simon.

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  3. Many years ago when I was a professional architectural modelmaker we did a model of a new-build school which was in a conservation area and designed in a faux Victorian style with brickwork and proper windows with header courses and arches. Scale was about 1:100 and the 'brickiness' of the design was important. So we took the architect's drawings, made sure they all worked and redrew them for brass etching. PPD in Lochgilphead did the work (everyone in the business used them as they were quality) and returned a 'kit' which we soldered together. Can't recall how we did the roof.

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  4. I did my apprenticeship at Thorp Modelmakers. We did small scale brick by fine splatter spraying a sheet of styrene then scribing lightly through the paint in parallel lines so some of the white of the styrene showed through. It sounds crude, but it was a very convincing method, from engineers' blue to light modern Flettons.
    These days I just cut out the arch from the moulded brick sheet and scribe a piece of similar thickness styrene and let it in.

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